Author: Slater Wold
Date: 16:09:48 11/02/02
Go up one level in this thread
On November 02, 2002 at 10:06:49, Aaron Gordon wrote: >On November 02, 2002 at 07:23:34, Slater Wold wrote: > >>On November 02, 2002 at 06:41:14, Aaron Gordon wrote: >> >>>On November 02, 2002 at 04:12:46, Vincent Diepeveen wrote: >>> >>>>On November 02, 2002 at 03:08:18, Aloisio Ponti Lopes wrote: >>>> >>>>XPs do not work, they have cutoff the L5 bridge. So unless you >>>>want to work hard and modify the XP L5 bridge yourself (at your >>>>own risk, because with some it still doesn't work then) the XPs >>>>will not work. >>>> >>>>>Someone posted here this link: >>>>> >>>>>http://www.hardwarezone.com/articles/articles.hwz?cid=2&aid=393&page=2 >>>>> >>>>>... but when I read the messages at the "related forum" I started to think about >>>>>buying the "_real_" MP processors... >>>>> >>>>>Does anyone here have an ASUS A7M-266D (I just bought one yesterday) motherboard >>>>>running Dual-XPs ? >>>>> >>>>>A. Ponti >>> >>>It'll work.. you just need to do it properly. Use regular clear tape for this, >>>it'll work fine. Just tape off the two contacts on the last L5 bridge only >>>exposing the middle pit. You can take a needle and fill it with a VERY small >>>ammount of super glue OR you can use non-conductive "Arctic Alumina" or standard >>>radio shack heatsink compound (Arctic silver can conduct electricity, do NOT use >>>it to fill the pit). You should use superglue though and be sure none of it >>>covers the two contacts (tape should be over those). Also despite the name >>>"Arctic Alumina" it's perfectly safe to use. >>> >>>After the pit is full & the SG has dried remove the tape and clean any excess >>>tape glue off the contacts. Lighter fluid works best. Now, tape over all the >>>other bridges except that last L5 (the one you put superglue in). You can now >>>use rear window defogger repair paint or your standard conductive pen from most >>>electronic stores. The defogger paint should be available at most auto part >>>stores. >>> >>>This may sound like a lot but it's really not, it's extremely simple. All you >>>need are the items I've mentioned and a steady hand and about 15 minutes to do >>>it. You could possibly take it to a jeweler or someone simliar and have them do >>>it if you don't feel you have a steady hand or don't trust yourself for whatever >>>reason. I also do it for free (you'll just need to provide shipping costs, >>>conductive ink & super glue. As always my labor is free) to those that want to >>>have it done (I also unlock the L1's on Palominos and the 5th L3 on the Tbreds). >>> >>>It's definitely worth the money and it basically pays for itself ($10 or so in >>>material).. >>> >>>Two AthlonMP 2200+'s (1.8GHz) = $418 >>>Two AthlonXP 2400+'s (2.0GHz) = $374 >>> >>>You save $44, gain 400MHz & the 2400+'s run cooler from the Tbred-B core. >> >>My XPs work fine. >> >>I have a good friend who works at Axion Tech in Houston, and he told me he has >>heard no less than a dozen stories saying the new Tbred-B cores do not work >>using the old methods. > >They should work w/ SMP, if you're talking multiplier unlocking this may help >for Tbred-B's.. and it would be very simple to do, even more so than what I >described above. > >http://www.ocworkbench.com/2002/amd/unlocktbred/unlocktbredp1.htm No. I'm talking about SMP unlocking.
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